Gran Gusto, Cambridge MA

Gran Gusto is one of those hole in the wall Italian trattorias that flies under the radar of the trendy and hip and it's not a coincidence it's one of my favorites. Their approach is very traditionally understated -- excellent ingredients, prepared simply, and served with little fuss. It's elegant in the way a crisp white shirt can be elegant when worn with confidence. Gran Gusto has that confidence and it's sexy.

Last visit I had something I'd not seen before and it was a new (to me) pasta shape -- Scialatielli with shrimp, radicchio and cherry tomato. This is like a chunky square instead of flat fettuccine with a great al dente bite. The bitter radicchio and sweet tomatoes and shrimp were an inspired medley of flavors, and this is a combination I'll recreate at home even if I can't find the pasta shape.

Then we had the special pizza -- a white pie with buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto, a drizzle of good olive oil and summer truffles. Black summer truffles from Umbria don't get the hype that their autumnal white cousins do, but these specimens were outstanding. The aroma that wafted up after our waitress shaved the truffles on the hot pizza made heads turn, and the combo of creamy cheese, salty prosciutto and heady tubers was a delight. The pizza at Gran Gusto is one of my favorites in town anyway (great crust) but this was over the top good.

The pizza:

The truffles:

The close-up money shot:

At Gran Gusto, you will be greeted by the Italian host who will probably kiss your hand upon arrival and your cheek upon leaving. (More likely if you're a lady.) And by the end of the evening you will have been transported to another time -- a time when no one has "manipulated" your food in the kitchen, or forced it into a leaning tower of architectural wonderment. You will have had a very good meal served humbly, with very good wine and hopefully very good company. And you will hope to race back soon, well before the next truffle season begins.

Gran Gusto
90 Sherman Street
Cambridge, MA
617-441 -0400

One perfect bite -- oyster slider at Island Creek Oyster Bar

I love Island Creek Oyster Bar for many reasons. The front of the house staff is excellent at making you feel special from the minute you arrive. The room is big and bustling but not too loud. The menu is varied and everything I've ordered so far in a dozen visits has been great -- from raw oysters, to chowder, to crudo, to dessert (get the warm cookies and ice milk, and thank me later!)

But for me, their one perfect bite has to be the oyster slider. It's a perfectly fried oyster on a mini brioche bun with lime aioli and a few leaves of arugula. In this application I don't mind the brioche as it squishes down and snuggles up to the crispy oyster. You get the briny oyster, the tangy aioli, the peppery greens and yes, a definite buttery slick.

This is not a great picture but you get the gist:

I could eat three right now!

Island Creek Oyster Bar
500 Commonwealth Ave.
Boston 02215