My pilgrimages to the lower east side in Manhattan usually include a trip to Katz's Deli for some pastrami (hint: tip your cutter and he'll give you a nice taste while he works), maybe a nip into Kossar's for bialies, and as often as possible a visit to Russ and Daughters for their superlative bagel sandwiches.
I love the ritual of taking my ticket from the old machine and shuffling to the back of the store to wait for my turn. When it finally comes, I eagerly and greedily taste the various salmon varieties on offer (nova, belly lox, Irish, Scottish, pastrami cured ....) and finally make my selection.
This time it was Scottish salmon on an everything bagel with cream cheese, red onions and capers. There is nothing better than unwrapping this beauty and contemplating it for a moment or two before that first bite. The silky smoke of salmon with the sharpness of onions and tangy capers combine with the cream cheese to make for a perfect mouthful. Don't be afraid of the lines, they move fast, and the yammering of the fish cutters provides world class entertainment while you wait.
Russ and Daughters
179 East Houston Street
New York, NY 10002
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